GDI: Mrs Schäfer, sauerkraut is eaten in the north, foie gras in the west and the ‘Röstigraben’ – the divide between German and French-speaking Switzerland – lies in between - don’t our regional traditions of food culture divide more than unite us?
Christine Schäfer: As a researcher, I’d have to say that it very much depends. Pizza, pasta and Döner kebabs are now enjoyed everywhere - and people eat fondue on both sides of the ‘Röstigraben’ too. This means food culture can both unite or divide – it can foster or hold back food innovation. Our study explored this range of variations – to do so, we conducted a representative survey amongst 2,100 consumers from Switzerland and the border regions of the neighbouring states of Germany, Austria, Italy and France.
Where do the greatest differences exist: between the various language regions (e.g. between Ticino and the rest of Switzerland) or between countries - e.g. between Ticino and northern Italy?
Well, that varies too. For example, we asked people how popular a range of different regional specialities are. In some cases, differences emerged between linguistic regions: German-speaking respondents in Switzerland, Germany and Austria were familiar with cap of rump, but had little desire to try oysters - in the French and Italian-speaking regions, the opposite was true. In other cases, segmentation based on national borders was observed: raclette and fondue, for example, are definitely part of the whole of Switzerland – from Basel right through to Montreux and Lugano.
Are there also instances of both linguistic and national differences in food culture?
Yes, there are. Aperitifs are a good example. They are held much less frequently in the German-speaking world than in French-speaking countries - but much more frequently in German-speaking Switzerland than in southern Germany or Vorarlberg. Another example is willingness to try new types of food. Italian-speaking Ticino and French-speaking Switzerland are ahead of German-speaking Switzerland - yet the latter is well ahead of France.
Is willingness to try new food types the key success factor in food innovation?
Willingness to try is vitally important to achieve initial contact with a new food product. It’s most successful amongst people who like to enjoy themselves and at events involving sharing and tasting. However, for an innovative food product to establish itself as part of our daily diet, it must meet a range of quality requirements, including health, transparency and pricing criteria.
And how do you reach people who’ve never tried anything other than what they usually eat, let alone anything foreign?
In markets with a firmly established food culture, adapting products carefully to local flavour preferences and traditions is the best approach. The use of regional ingredients and the modern interpretation of traditional dishes can help to bridge the gap between innovation and tradition. A prime example of this is ciabatta.
You mean the traditional Italian white bread with large pores?
Yes, exactly - only it isn’t a ‘traditional’ product. It was invented in 1982 by the baker Arnaldo Cavallari in Rovigo in northern Italy. So here innovation didn’t revolutionise traditional food culture, but instead enabled it to evolve.
Is this a formula for success for all food innovators?
Innovations can be more revolutionary too depending on the situation. Successful food innovations leverage cultural aspects for launch on the market. They don’t see local traditions as an obstacle, but instead as a framework for development.
The study ‘Decoding Food Culture: How Innovations Become Traditions’ can be downloaded free of charge (German only).
Christine Schäfer is a researcher and speaker at the GDI Gottlieb Duttweiler Institute. She analyses social, economic and technological trends, with a focus on food, consumption and retail.